Casale Monferrato

Casale Monferrato and Krumiri Rossi – second attempt!

Although I wrote last summer  never ever to put a foot into this „miserable place“ – I have to apologize and let me tell you again about my second attempt to find Krumiri Rossi!

Lovely red tin box

This May  2017  again on the autostrada 26 from Aosta to Genova….when I saw the road sign for Casale Monferrato, I said to my husband: “ Shall we not give it a second chance and go to Casale Monferrato and find the shop of the Portinaros and their famous KRUMIRI ROSSI  in that beautiful red tin box?”  After several discussions, my husband gave in and again we had to ask some pedestrians  where to find the shop of KRUMIRI ROSSI. We were advised to go to the Plaza del Castello, which was actually not that easy, but we found it. But my husband preferred to sit in a small café and enjoy his espresso, whereas I started – curious how I am – walking to the Plaza del Castello. I had to pass the most wonderful pedestrian street with very nice shops of all kind. At the end I had to make a left turn, another question: “Where is the Krumiri shop?”  Just here, the people told me.

This reminded me once many, many years ago, when I was in Pisa and was looking for the TORRE, and when I asked out of my car, the Pisa people just said to me: “Ecco là!” It was sort of in front of my nose.

Signora e Signor Portinaro and me

I entered the beautiful “temple” and right in front of the shop at the cashier – like in old times in Italy – sat an elegant gentlemen “come patrone” and I told him with a lot of passion the whole story of the Krumiri Rossi search! He laughed so much and even his wife,  having sold to me in the  meantime a carton with these lovely Krumiri Rossi looked over to us.  I then asked Signor Portinaro if he knew where I could find the vineyard of Livio Pavese …he said I do not know whether he still exists, but let me check. I went back to the car and found my husband and said “You have to come with me and go to the shop and they will tell us where to find your vineyard, which you remember from 30 years ago.”  Meanwhile Signor Portinaro got hold of the telephone number and address of Livio Pavese….  Just for memory we took a photo (see attached) and then we were up to Celli Monti, somewhere in direction Aosta in the mountains.

Marjo – daughter of Livio Pavese

We arrived in the street aand stood in front of the house which number was given to us. Again the area was not very inviting, but a young lady walked down the road. And we asked her where to find Livio Pavese! She said  I am Marjo and I am the daughter of Livio Pavese, but he passed away 2 years ago and the vineyard doesn’t exist anymore, as he had a lot of debts. But she said my Cousin has taken over and he is up the mountain in Celli Monti. I will give him a call that you are coming.

Ricardo and his 2016 Barbera d ‚Asti

Ok, ok, again lonely roads, dilapidated houses and nobody to see, I rang door bells, no answers! You really need a lot of enthusiasm to search this again! Finally at the end of the road, a car parked in front of a big stable door and it was opened: “Are you Ricardo?” “No, he said, I am Roberto, we are expecting you!” We entered and here came a big, strong man with a tray with cold cuts and ham. I said: “Buon appetito!”  „No, he said, this is for you!“ We took place on a simple terrace and asked to buy some wine. He said: No more wine, all sold!?! Only some of the last 2016 Barbera d’Asti is available. When I asked him, “why all is sold and how many?” He answered calmly: “100.000 bottles were sold!” I was flabbergasted that this little cantina had produced and sold so many bottles. He also sells to Germany in Krefeld and Hanover. So he placed many bottles on the table and opened a 2016 red Barbera d’Asti , very young, but very delicious and he said : “This wine will be a bomb – so good! Give it two more years in the bottle.”  Then we enjoyed the wine and the super delicious fennel salami and the pork lard. It was so delicious and in the end we hugged each other, took 12 bottles of “2016” and I said: “The second attempt was worthwhile.“

Celli Monti

This visit made us very happy this time and believe me…we will come again to get Krumiri Rossi and wine!




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